I have a new oak vanity I stained and now need to apply my laq. on it any easy ideas of how?

I have applied it several times before just so many details to this vanity wanted to know if there is an easier wayI have a new oak vanity I stained and now need to apply my laq. on it any easy ideas of how?
The best approach is to spray it on.





You'll want a pneumatic sprayer... not an electric. Electric sprayers will not atomize the finish as well as a pnuematic gun. HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is one way to achieve this, and usually does not require an air compressor, the unit is self-contained. Other finish guns will run off of 90psi air provided by an air compressor.





http://www.hvlp.com/


http://www.fujispray.com/





http://www.devilbiss.com/if_20.asp - Ive used a lot of De Vilbiss guns in my time, good sprayers.





You can often find some of these finish guns, or HVLP sprayers at tool rental stores... just dont confuse them with electric paint sprayers.





If you're going to be doing this more in the future, then think about purchasing a unit. If this is a one time application, then just rent the tools.





Just a note... these types of spray guns are adjustable.... you can use different tips when necessary, but generally, you adjust the volume of finish you are shooting, and the pressure you are using to apply it with. There are some tricks to the trade to get a good finish. The first thing to keep in mind is not to put too much finish in one spot... keep the gun moving, to avoid runs, etc.





Have FunI have a new oak vanity I stained and now need to apply my laq. on it any easy ideas of how?
Real lacquer is not brushable for it dries so quick by the time you brush a length of the vanity it will dry and lap on you..lacquer must be sprayed...
please please dont laquer it it will spoil it just stain it every now and then when needed it will look much better and more natural
Unless you have the necessary spraying equipment, there are some other options available for getting a professional finish: One can apply finishes with brushes or rags. Also, I use a lot of varnish and/or shellac that's sold in spray cans. Then you can have the advantages of spraying the finish, which normally does provide the best finish, without having to invest a lot of money in spraying equipment. There are basically two types of finish: penetrating, and top film. Either the finish soaks into the wood like oils or it basically lays on top, like shellac, lacquer, varnish, etc. Since you've stained the piece, I'd suggest you use some type of film finish.


If this piece does have a lot of details it would be easier to spray on a film finish. (lacquer can be brushed on, but sometimes one may need to add a laquer thinner to extend the curing time). Also,If you do brush on a finish or apply with a rag, it's difficult to avoid clumping or flooding the area with the fine details.


The difference between a good and great finish depends on how you finish the finish. No matter how careful you are, you can't apply a perfect finish. You will get a harsh-looking shine when you view the surface in reflected light, and you will be able to see brush marks or orange peel, depending on whether the finish was brushed or sprayed. You will always get some roughness caused by embedded dust. Especially whenever you apply several coats of a fim finish (a finish that you build to a thickness on the wood). The challenge is to get a near-perfect finish that looks great to the naked eye.


Rubbing a finish can do that. It cuts off (or at least rounds over) dust nibs, softens the harsh reflected shine when looked at with reflective light and removes (or at least disguises) brush marks and orange peel.


Alot of wood workers don't rub out their finish because they don't really understand it or appreciate the final effects. You don't have to rub out a finish but it will improve the appearance if you do.


Normally, I rub down shellac or varnish between coats (regardless of spraying or brushing). I use a steel wool (rated 000 or finer). This cut down the nibs raised by dust flecks (however small) or peaks caused by uneven drying.


After the last coat, I wait about a month before rubbing it out for finale. You can use sandpaper, steel wool or rubbing compounds. Slicon-carbon sandpaper is best. If you sand without a liquid lubricant, use stearated silicon-carbide sandpaper. If you use a lubricant, then wet/dry silicon-carbide sandpaper is better because of its water resistance. Both types will clog when used on the finish, especially if the finish hasn't totally cured. They just clog less than other types of sandpaper. If you do get little balls on the paper, called ';corns,'; remove then with a dull scraper. These balls will put too deep of a scratch on the finish.


The steel wool is used to create the even, satin, scratch pattern without the risk of corning. I follow the sanding with steel wool, again at least rated 000 or less.


The rubbing compound I use is the same for polishing car finishes. It brings it up to a very nice sheen that really deepens the beauty of the finish.


Finally, I apply a good old floor wax (johnson's has served me well) to get that final finish.


Remember, scratching is what creates a shine on everything. The smaller the scratches become, the higher the sheen. That's why when one moves from 100 grit to 220 the shine gets brighter. It's because the scratches become finer. You'll often hear discussions about ';scratching'; terms when talking about finishes. Then steel wool and rubbing polishes create ever smaller scratches until it's a high shine.





I believe everyone should invest in a good book that covers all aspects of wood finishes. For me personally, my finished work improved by leaps and bounds, merely by following some simple facts, and understanding how certain things react.





good luck